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Test 3- Section 3
[00:45.21TUTOR: OK, Jim.
[00:46.67You wanted to see me about your textile design project.
[00:50.31JIM: That's right.
[00:51.25I've been looking at how a range of natural dyes can be used to colour fabrics like cotton and wool.
[00:57.54TUTOR: Why did you choose that topic?
[00:59.67JIM: Well, I got a lot of useful ideas from the museum, you know, at that exhibition of textiles.
[01:05.67But I've always been interested in anything to do with colour.
[01:09.21Years ago, I went to a carpet shop with my parents when we were on holiday in Turkey, and I remember all the amazing colours.
[01:16.51TUTOR: They might not all have been natural dyes.
[01:19.32JIM: Maybe not, but for the project I decided to follow it up.
[01:23.58And I found a great book about a botanic garden in California that specialises in plants used for dyes.
[01:30.54TUTOR: OK.
[01:31.42So, in your project, you had to include a practical investigation.
[01:35.69JIM: Yeah.
[01:37.10At first I couldn't decide on my variables.
[01:40.05I was going to just look at one type of fibre for example, like cotton ...
[01:44.41TUTOR: ... and see how different types of dyes affected it?
[01:47.36JIM: Yes.
[01:48.47Then I decided to include others as well, so I looked at cotton and wool and nylon.
[01:54.13TUTOR: With just one type of dye?
[01:55.87JIM: Various types, including some that weren't natural, for comparison.
[01:59.75TUTOR: OK.
[02:00.74JIM: So, I did the experiments last week.
[02:04.01I used some ready-made natural dyes, I found a website which supplied them, they came in just a few days, but I also made some of my own.
[02:12.79TUTOR: That must have taken quite a bit of time.
[02:15.22JIM: Yes, I'd thought it'd just be a matter of a teaspoon or so of dye, and actually that wasn't the case at all.
[02:22.54Like I was using one vegetable, beetroot, for a red dye, and I had to chop up a whole pile of it.
[02:29.06So it all took longer than I'd expected.
[02:31.74TUTOR: One possibility is to use food colourings.
[02:34.58JIM: I did use one.
[02:35.88That was a yellow dye, an artificial one.
[02:38.41TUTOR: Tartrazine?
[02:39.77JIM: Yeah.
[02:39.94I used it on cotton first.
[02:42.13It came out a great colour, but when I rinsed the material, the colour just washed away.
[02:47.11I'd been going to try it out on nylon, but I abandoned that idea.
[02:51.27TUTOR: Were you worried about health issues?
[02:54.00JIM: I'd thought if it's a legal food colouring, it must be safe.
[02:57.33TUTOR: Well, it can occasionally cause allergic reactions, I believe.
[03:47.50TUTOR: So what natural dyes did you look at?
[03:50.07JIM: Well, one was turmeric.
[03:52.37The colour's great, it's a really strong yellow.
[03:55.50It's generally used in dishes like curry.
[03:58.56TUTOR: It's meant to be quite good for your health when eaten, but you might find it's not permanent when it's used as a dye - a few washes, and it's gone.
[04:06.28JIM: Right.
[04:07.60I used beetroot as a dye for wool.
[04:10.32When I chop up beetroot to eat I always end up with bright red hands, but the wool ended up just a sort of watery cream shade.
[04:18.27Disappointing.
[04:18.73TUTOR: There's a natural dye called Tyrian purple.
[04:21.92Have you heard of that?
[04:22.71JIM: Yes.
[04:23.10It comes from a shellfish, and it was worn in ancient times but only by important people as it was so rare.
[04:30.41I didn't use it.
[04:32.26TUTOR: It fell out of use centuries ago, though one researcher managed to get hold of some recently.
[04:37.71But that shade of purple can be produced by chemical dyes nowadays.
[04:41.47Did you use any black dyes?
[04:43.40JIM: Logwood.
[04:44.66That was quite complicated.
[04:46.46I had to prepare the fabric so the dye would take.
[04:49.15TUTOR: I hope you were careful to wear gloves.
[04:50.81JIM: Yes.
[04:51.48I know the danger with that dye.
[04:52.96TUTOR: Good.
[04:53.39It can be extremely dangerous if it's ingested.
[04:55.80Now, presumably you had a look at an insect-based dye?
[04:58.80Like cochineal, for example?
[05:00.86JIM: Yes.
[05:01.85I didn't actually make that, I didn't have time to start crushing up insects to get the red colour and anyway they're not available here, but I managed to get the dye quite easily from a website.
[05:14.29But it cost a fortune.
[05:14.89I can see why it's generally just used in cooking, and in small quantities.
[05:19.71TUTOR: Yes, it's very effective, but that's precisely why it's not used as a dye.
[05:24.05JIM: I also read about using metal oxide.
[05:27.12Apparently you can allow iron to rust while it's in contact with the fabric, and that colours it.
[05:32.92TUTOR: Yes, that works well for dying cotton.
[05:35.55But you have to be careful as the metal can actually affect the fabric and so you can't expect to get a lot of wear out of fabrics treated in this way.
[05:42.71And the colours are quite subtle, not everyone likes them.
[05:47.08Anyway, it looks as if you've done a lot of work ...
导师:好,吉姆。
你想和我谈谈你的纺织品设计项目。
吉姆:是的。
我一直在研究如何用各种天然染料给棉花和羊毛等织物上色。
导师:你为什么选择这个话题?
吉姆:我从博物馆得到了很多有用的想法,你知道的,就是那个纺织品展览。
但是我一直对任何与颜色有关的东西都感兴趣。
几年前,我和父母去土耳其度假时去了一家地毯店,我记得那些所有令人惊艳的颜色。
导师:他们可能并不都是天然染料。
吉姆:也许不是,但为了项目,我决定继续研究这个话题。
我还发现了一本很棒的书,是关于加利福尼亚的一个专门种植用于染料的植物园。
导师:好的。
所以,在你的项目中,你必须有一个实际的调查。
吉姆:是的。
一开始我无法决定变量。
我只看一种纤维,例如棉花……
导师:还要观察不同类型的染料如何影响它?
吉姆:是的。
然后我决定把其他的也包括进来,所以我观察了棉、羊毛和尼龙。
导师:只用一种染料?
吉姆:各种类型的。包括一些不是纯天然的染料来做比较。
导师:好的。
吉姆:所以,我上周做了实验。
我用了一些现成的天然染料,我找到了一个销售网站,几天就收到了,但我也自己做了一些。
导师:这一定会花相当多的时间。
吉姆:是的,我认为这件事小菜一碟,实际上并非如此。
我用了一种蔬菜,甜菜根,做红色的染料。我不得不把它整个切碎。
所以花的时间比我预想的要长。
导导师:有一种可能的方法是使用食品色素。
吉姆:我用过一个。
那是一种黄色染料,一种人造染料。
导导师:柠檬黄?
吉姆:是的。
我先用在棉花上。
它呈现的颜色很好,但当我冲洗材料时,颜色就被洗掉了。
我本来打算在尼龙上试试,但我放弃了这个想法。
导师:你担心健康问题吗?
吉姆:我想如果这是一个合法的食用色素,它必须是安全的。
老师:嗯, 我相信它有时也会引起过敏反应。
导师:那么你在考虑哪些天然染料?
吉姆:嗯,一个是姜黄,
颜色很好,是一种很深的黄色。
它通常用于像咖喱这样的菜肴中。
导师:食用时,它似乎对你的健康很好,但你可能会发现用作染料时,它不是永久性的,经过几次冲洗,它就掉色了。
吉姆:是的。
我用甜菜根作羊毛的染料。
当我切甜菜根吃的时候,我的手总是红彤彤的,但是羊毛最后变成了一种稀奶油色。
令人失望。
导师:有一种叫做泰尔红紫的天然染料。
你听说过吗?
吉姆:听说过。
它来自一种贝类,在古代因为它非常罕见,只有重要人物才能穿这种颜色。
我没有用过它。
导师:几个世纪前它不用了,尽管最近一位研究人员设法找到了一些。
但是现在那种紫色的色度可以用化学染料染出来。
你用过黑色染料吗?
吉姆:洋苏木。
这种染料使用相当复杂。
我需要提前处理好布料,这样染料才能上色。
导师:我希望你小心,要戴手套。
吉姆:好的。
我知道那种染料有危险。
导师:很好。
如果你摄入它,会非常危险。
现在,也许你考虑过一种昆虫染料?
比如说胭脂红?
吉姆:是的。
我并没有做那个,我没有时间去碾碎昆虫来得到那种红色,这不容易实现,但是我很容易地从一个网站上得到了染料。
但它花了我一大笔钱。
我可以理解为什么人们只在烹饪中少量地使用这种染料了。
导师:是的,它非常有效的,但这正是为什么不被用作染料的原因。
吉姆:我也读过关于使用金属氧化物的相关读物。
很明显,当铁接触织物时,会让它生锈,从而使织物变色。
导师:是的,它适用于染棉质织物。
但是你必须小心,因为金属会影响织物,所以不要期待通过这种方法染出的织物的还能很耐用。
并且织物的颜色很微妙,不是每个人都喜欢。
总之,看起来你做了很多工作……
SECTION 3 Questions 21-30
Questions 21-24
Choose the correct letter, A, B or C.
Project on using natural dyes to colour fabrics
21 What first inspired Jim to choose this project?
A textiles displayed in an exhibition
B a book about a botanic garden
C carpets he saw on holiday
22 Jim eventually decided to do a practical investigation which involved
A using a range of dyes with different fibres.
B applying different dyes to one type of fibre.
C testing one dye and a range of fibres.
23 When doing his experiments, Jim was surprised by
A how much natural material was needed to make the dye.
B the fact that dyes were widely available on the internet.
C the time that he had to leave the fabric in the dye.
24 What problem did Jim have with using tartrazine as a fabric dye?
A It caused a slight allergic reaction.
B It was not a permanent dye on cotton.
C It was ineffective when used on nylon.
Questions 25-30
What problem is identified with each of the following natural dyes?
Choose SIX answers from the box and write the correct letter, A-H, next to Questions 25-30.
Problems A It is expensive. B The colour is too strong. C The colour is not long-lasting. D It is very poisonous. E It can damage the fabric. F The colour may be unexpected. G It is unsuitable for some fabrics. H It is not generally available. |
Natural dyes
25 turmeric __________
26 beetroot __________
27 Tyrian purple __________
28 logwood __________
29 cochineal __________
30 metal oxide __________
Section 3, Questions 21-30
21 C
22 A
23 A
24 B
25 C
26 F
27 H
28 D
29 A
30 E
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